Back in his time, Duke Ellington was the epitome of black male fashion.

Known for wearing double-breasted suits with a pocket square, knotting his neckties with a dimple and keeping his shoes impeccably polished, Ellington set the standard for how a gentleman should dress.

So, using the legendary composer as my inspiration, I present to you five do’s and dont’s of fine men’s dress:

1. Always wear pure silk ties:
Natural fabrics such as silk perform better than man-made fibers. The higher the silk content in a tie, the better it tends to perform. Lower-end ties contain 10 to 12 ounces of silk, while higher-end ties have 18 to 24 ounces.

2. Keep the shoes polished:
A set of well-polished shoes not only shows luster and radiance, they also are better protected from scrapes and scuffs and various atmospheric elements. Use cedar shoe trees for footwear. The cedar absorbs moisture that soaks into your shoes when your feet sweat. Shoe trees also help maintain the shape of the shoe. Give your shoes two days to rest between wearings.

3. Never wear pleated trousers without cuffs:
Pleats are necessary for trousers because, when one sits, your hips naturally spread. Pleats provide the added room needed to accommodate this spread. Pleats also take pressure off the seams of your trousers and provides room in the crotch area. Cuffs add more weight to the bottom of the trouser, allowing the crease to be noticed more. Cuffs also make the trouser hang, or drape, better.

4. Always wear a pocket square:
All serious men’s suit manufacturers design suit jackets with a breast pocket. This is to display a pocket square. It is not a place to hold cigarettes or reading glasses. There are pockets on the inside of the jacket for those items. A pocket square adds a finishing touch to the male ensemble. It also gives any suit a high-end look.

5. Always have a dimple in your tie:
Having a dimple in your tie adds instant personality to the tie. A dimple let’s everyone know you understand the correct way to knot a tie. A dimple in the tie brings the tie to life, as opposed to the tie looking like just a piece of fabric around the neck.

Dwayne Collins has spent more than 24 years in the men's retail industry. He currently is a consultant with Styles by Privilege, a Charlotte business that helps men fine-tune their wardrobes.
 

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